Method of reweaving fabric



Feb. 29, 1944. w 5 HEBER ET AL 2,343,183

METHOD OF REWEAVING FABRIC Feb. 29,` 1944.

w. s. HIEBER ETAI. 3

METHOD OF REWEAVING FABRIC Filed April 22, 1942 4 Sheets-Shea?I 2 Waff-ie Ze? [.Zmer am Sonia [1,Hz'ee7 w. s. HIEBER rx-:T A1.

METHOD OF REWEAVING FABRIC Filed April 22, 1942 4 Sheets-Shea?I 3 TH/TEA D EWV /V Uma/NAL.

THREAD Feb- 29 i944 W. S. HIEBER ET A1. 2,343,183

METHOD OF REWEAVING FABRIC Filed April 22, 1942 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 N WSHZEQ?" [I] lmer v 5072 a ,H'eef Patented Feb. 219, 1944 METHOD F'REWEAVING FABRIC William S. Hleber, Sonia L. Bieber, and Irwin C. Elmer, Atlanta, Ga.

Application April 2z, 1942, serialNo.44o,oss I fnf',

8 Claims.

This invention relates to the art of reweaving worn and damaged fabric.

An object of this invention is to provide a method of reweaving or reconstructing the weave in a worn or otherwise damaged area of a fabric. 5

Another object of this invention is to provide a method of reweaving or reconstructing the weave of a fabric in or through a worm or damaged area, so that the reweaving or reconstructing cannot be detected on the face of the fabric.

A further object of this invention is to provide a method of reweaving or reconstructing a fabric which will not only replace the fabric strands or yarn, but will also provide a construction having the strength of the original fabric and which will not pull out.

A further object of this invention is to provide a method of reweaving a fabric which is simple in procedure, so that any person unskilled y in the art can easily follow the method and 20 produce a satisfactory reconstruction or reweaving of the fabric. Y

A further object of this invention is to provide an improved method of reweaving or reconstructing ay fabric which includes the initial step of reestablishing the warp threads or yarn across the damaged spot or area, with the opposite ends of the inserted warp threads woven into the main fabric onopposite sides of the damaged spot or area, and'then restablishing the filler or weft threads or yarn with the opposite ends of the -latter threads or yarn woven into the main fabric on opposite sides ofthe damaged spot or area.

A further object of this invention is to provide an improved method whereby like warp and filler or weft threads or yarn may be obtained from the main fabric or garment without damaging the fabric or garment, so that these removed threads taken from a remote part of the main fabric or garment may be used in reconstructing the fabric in the damaged area.

A further object of this invention is to ,provide an improved method of reconstructing a damaged spot or area in a fabric, wherein the reconstructed part is actually rewoven by a weavel identical with the weave of the fabric, so that there will be no appearance of a repaired area.'

A further object of this invention is to provide an improved method of reweaving a worn area in a fabric which includes cutting each 60 worn thread or strand, tying an end of a new thread onto an end of each worn thread, pulling each worn thread from the fabric and also reweaving the new thread in the space occupied by the worn thread, and finally reweaving the opposite ends of the inserted threads into the fabric.

In the carrying out oflthis invention, it is necessary to follow the correct steps for reweaving, i. e., anchoring each new thread so perfecto fabrics, the cloth is loosely woven, and the th reads 1y and following the correct principle laflever- 'I age, in such a manner as to restorethemfull,l Y, strength of the damaged area. and when ne c`es' 'A sary by carefully extending the threads and an-1 choring points, actually increase the wearingy re-., sistance of the rewoven area in the danifagecl garment. Instead of just pulling threads through the fabric in any haphazard manner; "thisfin-g vention contemplates followinga'planneds'pro# cedure, i. e., of entering, anchoring; progressing and interlockingand certain very definite'farid1fv necessary rules which are necessary becausefrelf: weaving must accomplish two things: First, to restore the original appearance'of the fabric, and second, to restore the strength and wearing A quality of the fabric. Unless the above two' points are accomplished, the result is not genuine reweaving. In the 'reweaving of a daniagedyfab-fl ric, where the damage consists of strands which, are worn thin or is in the form of a hole inf' the fabric, the first step is to determine' the exact weave of that particular fabric. In some are thick and when this condition is presengthe" weave can often be easily and-quickly'determi'n" by a visual inspection of the fabric when' th operator understands and follows therulesffo reweaving. fj One of the most important steps in connection with the reweaving of the fabric is the initial p determination of the Weave Formu1a"'of the c particular fabric. 'Ihe term formula" is herein""` defined as the specific weave, over and unden'of n i the illler threads with respect to the warp threads. j After a person has had some experience in the reweaving of fabrics, he will be able to determineA by a visual inspection the correctformula of certain of the fabrics. The formula is initially determined by a careful examination of the dam aged fabric. Where the fabric threads are fairly thick, this examination may be made by a visual f inspection which may include pulling or raveling a number of warp threads and at the same time jotting down on a piece of paper the progression of the warp threads over and under the filler v threads; as an example, the progression is noted as one over, one under in a tabby weave and is placed on the formula chart as follows:v

Where a fabric has a design woven thereinto, a suillcient number of warp threads are pulled out until the repeat of the weave is obtained. The correct weaving of the filler threads is then jotted f down on the chart in the same manner as the warp threads. This chart then serves as the guide during the reweaving operation to be hereinafter described.

In the event the threads of the fabric are fairly thin, it may be necessary in the determination of the weave formula to inspect the" fabric under a magnifying glass and remove the warp and filler threads under the high-powered glass. In certain fabrics the threads are of a loose twist, that is, the fibers are not tightly twisted together, so that the fibers of one thread intermingle with the bers of an adjacent thread thereby making it difdcult. if not impossible, to

pull the threads apart, and at the same time, determine the weave formula thereof. In a case of this kind, the fabric is dipped in molten wax. The hardened wax will rmly bind the bers of each thread together, so that the warp a'hd ller threads may be separated without damage thereto, and the threads which are to be used in the reweaving process to be hereinafter described, may be rewoven without damage thereto..

Where the fabric is waxed, the hardened wax will make each thread quite stin, so that where the warp threads are being removed, the filler threads which lie under a warp thread may be bent backwards, and the filler threads which are over the warp threads may be bent forward. This procedure will make it easy to determine the count or formula, and the procedure as to determining the formula of the warp threads is also repeated as to the filler threads.

To'the foregoing objects and others which may hereinafter appear. the invention consists of the novel method as 'will be more specifically referred to and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications may be resorted to which fall within the scope of the invention as claimed.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a plan view of a fragmentary portion of a damaged fabric with the strands or threads of yarn spread apart for convenience of illustration',

Figure 2 is a plan view of a fragmentary portion of the fabric partly in section showing the first step in the reweaving process,

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing a pair of warp threads rewoven into the fabric,

Figure 4 is a fragmentary plan view of the fabric showing the second step in the reweaving which includes the weaving of the weit or filler threads in the fabric,

Figure 5 is a plan view of the fragmentary portion of vthe fabric with the weft or filler and warp threads rewoven into the fabric,

Figure 6 is a plan view of the finished reweaving wherein the opposite ends of the inserted or rewoven strands are cut olf,

Figure 7 is a diagrammatic view showing a fabric showing in dot and dash lines waxed portions thereof,

Figure 8 is a fragmentary sectional view of a strand used in a fabric wherein the fibers forming the strand are relatively loose,

Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure 8 but showing the loosely twisted strand coated with wax or paraffin to hold the fibers together,

Figure 10 is a perspective view of a rewoven fabric, shown diagrammatically wherein the rewoven strands are coated with wax or paraffin and the manner in which the wax or paraflin is removed from the rewoven strands,

Figure 11 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line I I-I i of Figure 2,

Figure 12 is a fragmentary plan view of a series of strands or threads .showing the manner in which the rewoven strand orthread is positioned with respect to the remaining strands or threads in the fabric,

Figure 13 is a diagrammatic view of a damaged fabric wherein certain of the warp and filler or weft threads are worn but not completely severed,

Figure 14 is a sectional view taken on the line M-II showing the ilrst step in reweaving a new thread in the worn area of the fabric shown in Figure 13.

Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 14 but showing the inserted or new thread rewoven into the fabric,

Figure i6 is a view similar to Figures 14 and 15 but showing the opposite ends ofthe inserted or rewoven strand cut olf to provide a finished article,

Figure 17 is a fragmentary pian view of the fabric shown in Figure 13 and showing the manner in which the outer ends of the inserted strands or threads are staggered and cut oif in order to eliminate any definite lines at the marginal edges of the inserted strands or threads.

In the reweaving of a damaged fabric where the damage consists of strands which are worn thin or is in the :form of a hole in the fabric, the first step in connection with the repair of the damaged area is -to initially determine the exact weave of the particular fabric. The word formula" as herein used relates to the specic weave of the warp and weft or filler strands makina up the fabric. In the example of a fabric shown in the drawings, the fabric is made up of warp and filler or weft threads or strands which are woven together by what is known as a tabby weave, wherein the filler or weft'threads are woven alternately over and under the warp and weft threads. It will be understood that the weaving process hereinafter described may be used with any weave, so lthat when the inserted threads are rewoven according to the specific weave, the inserted threads will substantially vanish or be imperceptible. In certain fabrics where the weave is fairly loose or where the strands of the'yarn are fairly thick or large, the

`weave formula can be easily and quickly determined by a visual inspection of the fabric.

Another method of determining the particular weave formula of the fabric is to inspect the fabric under a magnifying glass, and if necessary, pull out certain of the strands adjacent an edge of the fabric while under a magnifying glass. so as to determine the particular weave formula of the fabric.

Where the fabrics are very closehr woven, and

' even packed or battened so tightly that one warp thread is bent over or under the next warp thread in such a manner that lt is impossible to unravel these threads in a uniform manner, and since one thread will tend to bend over the other, the count is confused, that is, the number of warp and filler threads may be confused, and the speciilc weave formula may also be confused. Furthermore, the threads may be so loosely twisted that they tend to separate or the fibers intermingle andi in addition, the threads tend to disintegrate when separated. The use of a magnifying glass facilitates the determination of the weave formula as it enlarges the fibers, but with certain fabrics the threads appear as a mass of fibers, so that no distinction is possible between each thread. This may be overcome by waxing the threads to break down the weave so that the weave may be determined and a reweaving formula may be prepared. To accomplish this, a small section of the fabric is obtained, a pin fastened to the upper right corner identifying the face of the fabric and the direction of the warp and the filler threads. The fabric is then dipped in molten wax. When the wax is congealed, some iiller threads at the top and the warp threads at the left are removed. The overhanging thread ends are placed stiilly erect and are separated easily because each is waxed. Since the waxed threads tend to stand stiiy apart, they are easily counted.

For example, as a filler thread is removed from left to right. raising it gradually through the waxed warp threads that are standing erect, the warp threads that go over this first iiller thread are bent forwardly, and the warp threads underneath the filler thread that is being removed are bent backwards as the count is secured. The counted strands are then out of the way. After this, the filler thread is removed and the bent warp threads are straightened back to their original position, The wax will again hold them stiilly erect and the count or weave ofthe next nller thread over and under the warp threads may be obtained, as this next filler thread is removed'. When the repeat of the weave is.

reached, the correct reweavlns procedure, both The specific weave of the fabric can be deter mined by other methods, it being understood that the exact weave of the fabric is to be determined before commencing the reweaving operation.

After determining the specific weave formula of the fabric, the next step in this process is to nnd portions of the fabric wherein identical warp and filler threads may be removed from the fabric for use in reweaving the damaged area of the fabric.

Where the fabric is made up as a garment, the threads or strands to be rewoven into the damaged area may be taken from concealed portions of the garment, so that the garment will not be injured by the removal of such threads or strands. I'he threads or strands which are to be rewoven into the fabric, so as to reweave or reconstruct the weave of the fabric within the damaged area, ane preferably of a length about one and one-half inches longer than either the length or width of the damaged area. It is preferable at the time the threads or strands are removed from the fabric at some inconspicuous point in the fabric that such threads or strands be laid aside in the same position as the position they assume in the original fabric. In other words, the warp threads or strands are laid lengthwise, and the filler or weft threads or strands are laid crosswise and at one side of the warp threads or strands. In this manner the person performing the reweaving operation will not mistakenly insert filler orweft threads or strands in place of the warp threads or strands.

Having removed the warp and ller or weft threads from an inconspicuous portion of the fabric, which in the drawing is generally designated as 20,- the fabric is turned sidewise so that the warp of the fabric is in a substantially horizontal position. The fabric adjacent the damaged area, designated 2|, is pinned to a weighted and fabric-covered block with an edge of the fabric loose and extending 'from the block in the yThe needle 22 is provided with a forward pointed end 25 and a hook 22.

In order to facilitate the obtaining of the warp and filler threads from a selected portion of the garment or fabric, a picker pin 2l is provided. The" picker 22 is secured at its rear end in a handie 22 within which the stem 24 of the needle 22 is also secured. The pin or picker 2l extends from the handle 2l in a divergent relation with respect to the stem or shank 24 of the needle 22, as shown in Figure 11. The pin or operator .28 is substantially shorter in length than the length of the needle 22. The needle 22 at its forward end is provided with a pivoted latch or guard 3l which is adapted to engage the hook 2l at the time the needle 22 isvwithdrawn from the fabric. At the time the needle 22 is initially started through the fabric, the needle 22 is projected in and out of warp thread 21, as shown at 3|.

When the needle 22 is woven over and under the filler threads from a point at one side cf lthe damaged area 2|, the needle 22 is again proiected, as shown at 22, lengthwise through the aligned warp strand 21 from the inner free end thereof and is woven over and under the nller strands on the opposite side of the hole 2|.

A new warp strand or thread 22 is then engaged and looped onto the hook 2l of the needle 22 and the latch moved to a closed position. The new warp strand 22 is then rewoven over and under the filler strands 23 by withdrawing the needle 22 from the fabric and weaving the new warp strand 23 in place. The opposite ends of the rewoven warp strand may terminate within a pierced portion of the warp strand 21. This operation of inserting the new warp strands is continued until the damaged area has' been covered by the new warp strands 2l.

After the initial step hereinbefore described has been completed, that is, after the new warp strands Il have been rewoven into the fabric 20 and the rewoven strands anchored as at 2| and 22, the fabric is turned at right angles so as to position the warp strands 21 vertically and the weft or ller strands horizontally. The manner in which the new weft or filler strands 2l are rewoven into the fabric 2l is the same in which the warp strands 2l were rewoven into the fabric. In other words, the new filler strands are woven over and under the original, as well as the new warp strands, and are also projected into aligned filler strands.

The new filler or weft strands 3l adjacent the outer portions thereof are adapted to be extend- Aed lengthwise through the fibers forming the weft or filler strands 22, as shown at 35 and 36. The inserted weft or filler strands, when rewoven into the fabric 2l, will be as shown in Figure 5.

Figures 1 to 6, inclusive, have been shown with the respective strands spaced apart in exaggerated form with the inserted warp andr-ller strands across the hole 2l offset from the fabric strands in order to' clearly define the inserted warp and filler strands 35 and 34, respectively. In actual practice, however, the inserted warp and filler strands will be in axial alignment and can only be seen byplacing the rewoven or reconstructed fabric b'efore a strong light at which time the extended" ends of the inserted' or rewoven warp and filler strands will appear as deep shadows in the fabric. .l

Where the fabric, as shown by the numeral 31 in Figure '1, is formed of loosely twisted strands, it is diicult w remove the desired strands, both warp and ller or weft strandsfrom the fabric without pulling the strands apart. In order, therefore, to provide a means whereby the warp and iiller strands may be taken from an inconspicuous portiony of the fabric without damaging the removed strands, the fabric 31 is waxed as shown by the dot and dash lines 39 and 39. This procedure may also be used to determine the weave of certain fabrics. After the fabric'31 has been waxed or coatedwith parain which is adapted to substantially impregnate each strand, the warp strands or threads 40 are pulled out and then the Weit or illler strands 4| are removed fromthe fabric 31. The waxed or coated strands 40 and 4I are then'rewoven into the fabric 31 after the manner shown in Figures 2 to 6 inclusive. The waxed strands 40 and 4| when 'rewoven into the fabric 31 are then subjected to a steam blast from a steam nozzle 42 as shown in Figure 10 with a blotter or other absorbent means on the underside of the fabric. The hot steam will melt and remove the wax from the coated strands so that the inserted warp and filler or weft strands 40 and 4i, respectively, will be in their original uncoated condition. 'A blotter or other absorbent element may be positioned beneath the fabric to thereby absorb the melted wax. In Figure 8, there is shown in enlarged section a loosely twisted strand 4l with the fibers extending from the strand, whereas ,in Figure 9, the strand 4Il is shown as being coated by wax 29.

In order to provide for reweaving of the warp and weft strands, so that after the reweaving operation has been completed, the rewoven strands cannot be detected, the rewoven strands shown by the numeral 43 in Figure 12 are so positioned in their inserted relation with respect to the warp or weft strands 44 that the twist of the nbers, shown by the numeral 45, will be in the same direction as the twist of the fibers 49 in the fabric strands 44. After the reweaving operation has been completed, as shown in Figure 6 orin Figure 10, the repaired fabric is pressed in the usual manner so as to flatten the interwoven new threads. This latter operation will eliminate any detection of the reweaving operation except under very close examination involving the use of light at one side of the fabric.

In Figures 13 to 17. inclusive, there is disclosed a modified form of reweaving process. wherein the fabric 41 has a worn area 45 designated by the dot and dash line 49. The warp strands 5I are initially lifted at a point spaced from the worn area 48 by means of the lifting pin 2B, shown in Figure 11. The pulled or lifted portion of the warp strand 50 is then cut oif, as shown at 5|, and a short length of the cut strand 50 is then withdrawn or unwoven from the filler or weft strands 52. The needle 22 is then projected through the loosened end 53 of the warp strand 50 at several spaced points, as shown at 54, and a new or unworn strand 55 is engaged with the hook of the needle 22. The Vend of the new strand 55 is then pulled through the pierced portions 54 of the end 53 thereby locking or tying one end of the new strand 55 directly to the end 53 of the warp strand 50. The warp strand 55 is then cut off as at 55 at a point on the opposite side of the worn area 48.

The end 51 which is opposite from the end 53 is then pulled endwise, so as to pull out the now completely cut warp strand 50 from the fabric 41. the new or unworn strand 55 is rewoven over and under the filler or weft strands 52, and the new strand 55 will then assume the position shown in Figure 15 with the opposite ends -54 and 59 thereof extending from one side of the fabric 41. The warp strands which are to be removed from the fabric 48 at their opposite ends are preferably cut olf in staggered relation, as shown in Figure 17, so that there will not be any definite line of these severed warp threads remaining in the fabric 41.

The ller or weft threads are rewoven in the same manner, as shown in Figures 14 and 15, being rewoven overand under the newly inserted warp threads 55. After. the warp and weft or filler threads 55 and 5u, respectively, have been rewoven into the fabric 41, the opposite or free ends thereof are then rewoven into the fabric 41 in the manner shown in Figures 2and ll. That is, the needle 22 is extended over and under the filler or. .weft threads from Y a point beyond which the original warp threads 50 were cut and then the free ends 58 and 59 of the warp threads 55 are pulled over and under the original weft or filler threads 52. When this latter reweaving operation of the free ends of the inserted warp and ller or weft threads 55 and 60 has been completed, the ends of these inserted threads will appear as shown in Figure I1. The opposite ends 58 and 59 of the inserted or rewoven warp threads 55 will extend beyond the point at which the original warp threads 59 were cut oil.

Preferably the ends of the inserted warp and weft or filler threads are alternately longer and shorter, so as to provide a ystaggered joining line which in the completed reweaving operation will not be discernible.

The method of reweaving a fabric as hereinbefore described has been placed in actual use and by reason of the anchoring of the opposite ends of the inserted strands, the inserted strands are firmly held within the original fabric and will not readily pull out under normal or even hard usage of a garment.

As hereinbefore stated, it is important in performing the reweaving operation that identical warp and filler or weft threads be provided for the reweaving or reconstructing operation. Inasmuch as most garments are constructed with extending edges in various portions of the gar ment. these inserted strands can readily be As the worn warp strand 5l is pulled out,

found and removed without detection from the garment. It is also important that the exact weave of the fabric be found. Under certain conditions the weave may be determined by a visual inspection or an inspection under a magnifying glass. Under other conditions it is necessary to wax a portion of the fabric and then loosen the waxed strands which are stiiened by the wax. When the wax strands are loosened or spread aparta slight distance,

the weave can be readily determined, or the strands are removed until a repeat of the weave occurs.

The method of reweaving a fabric as hereinbefore described has also been found to beV more satisfactory from the standpoint of the owner of the garment in that the exact point of the repair of reweaving of the fabric cannot be determined except by a very close inspection of the garment. This method of reweaving or reconstructing the fabric at and about a damaged area is much more satisfactory to the owner of the garment or fabric, as the rewoven fabric will wear in the same degree as the original fabric, and will not pull out as is the case where a patch is inserted within a hole.v

What we claim is:

1, The method of reweaving a damaged fabric which includes initially reweaving a plurality of strands into the fabric on opposite sides of the damaged area, said strands being disposed in alignment with correlated strands of said fabric, reweaving a plurality oi strands into the fabric at right angles to said first strands, said second strands being rewoven into opposed portions of the fabric and also into said first strands in a weave identical with the weave of said fabric, said strands being identical as to diameter, iibercontent and fiber arrangement with correlated strands of said fabric, and anchoring the opposite ends of all of said strands relative to selected strands of said fabric. V l

2. 'I'he method of reweaving a damaged fabric which includes initially reweaving a plurality of strands into the fabric on opposite sides of the damaged area, reweaving a plurality of strands into the fabric at right angles to said rst strands. said second strands being7 woven into'opposed portions of the fabric and also into said rst strands, and threading opposite end portions of said rat mentioned and second mentioned strands through selected strands of said fabric to thereby anchor the rst and second mentioned strands relative to the fabric.

3. The method of reg/caving a damaged fabric which includes initially reweaving warp strands into the fabric and acrcss the damaged portion thereof with the warp strands extending a substantial distance from opposite sides of the damaged portion, and reweaving nller or weft strands through said warp strands and into the fabric a substantial distance from the remaining edges of the damaged portion said strands being disposed in alignment with correlated strands of said fabric, and said strands being identical as to diameter. ber content and fiber arrangement with correlated stds of said fabric.

4, The method of reweaving a fabric having a. thin or worn area which includes initially progressively cutting the warp strands of the fabric at opposed points outwardly of the worn area, raising an end of a worn warp strand, securing an end of a new warp strand onto the raised end of a worn portion of the warp strand, Withdrawing the worn warp strand endwise to remove the latter and reweave the new warp strand in the place of the worn warp strand, progressively cut ting the illler or weft strands of the fabric outwardly of the worn area, raising an end of a worn filler or weft strand, securing an end of a new filler strand onto the raised end of a portion of a worn filler or weft strand, withdrawing the worn portion of the filler or weft strand endwise to remove the latter and reweaving the new filler or weft strand in the place of the worn filler or weft strand. c-

5. The method of reweaving the Worn area of a fabric which includes initially removing the worn portion of the warp strands from the fabric, reweaving new Warp strands in the place of the worn' portion of the warp strands, removing the worn portion of the filler or weft strands from the fabric, reweaving new filler or Weit strands in place of the worn portion of the filler or weft strands, and anchoring the inserted warp and filler strands with the Warp and filler strands oi' the fabric.

lii. The method of reweaving the worn area oi' a fabric which includes initially removing the worn portion of the warp strands from the fabric, reweaving new warp strands in the place of the worn portion of the warp strands, removing the worn portion of the filler or weft strands from the fabric. and reweaving new ller or weft strands in place of the worn portion of the iiller or weft strands, the reweaving warp and iiller or weft strands having a length greater than the length of the removed warp and iiller or weft strands, and finally reweavins and anchoring the extended ends of the warp and ller or weft strands into the fabric to thereby provide for an overlapping of the rewoven strands with respect to the warp and filler or weft strands of the fabric.

7. The method of repairing a hole in a fabric which includes reweaving individual warp and weft or filler strands across the hole and into the fabric outwardly of the hole and interiocking the inserted strands with the fabric strands said strands being disposed d.in alignment with conelated strands' of said fabric, and said strands be- 'strands into the fabric outwardly ofthe hole and into each other, anchoring the ends of the inserted warp strands by piercing adjacent fabric warp strands, and anchoring the ends 'of the inserted filler or`weft strands by piercing adjacent fabric weft strands.

wnmAM s. amena. soNIA n IRWIN, C. imma. 

